Friday 16 August 2013

Day Two - Rhandirmwyn to Pontrhydfendigaid. 20 miles.

Total ascent 857m (2812ft).
Yesterday was 482m (1581ft).

The man who devised the Cambrian Way was Tony Drake, who died last year. On page 48 of his (and possibly the only, it's never really taken off as a walk!) guide book he says, "we now enter the Doethie Valley, which in the author's opinion is the most attractive valley on the whole Cambrian Way". I can say categorically, having not even finished the walk, that he's absolutely right. I walked along it and connected valleys for 10 miles today, and it was beautiful throughout, but some sections were breathtaking. And this morning is exactly why I do these walks, because I would never have found it otherwise. I had loads of 'awe and wonder' breaks and decided I would make up lost time by striding out on the tops later.



The upper reaches of the Doethie Valley.

I didn't, because I couldn't. This afternoon is exactly why I wonder why I do these walks. 10 more miles, but this time stumbling around between giant grass tufts and tentatively crossing endless bogs. The landscape itself was super-remote, moorland disappearing into the remote distance in every direction, and from the higher ground I could see back to the Brecon Beacons, ahead to the high mountains to come, and to the sea. It's just a shame I had to spend so much time looking at the ground!

In between I found a great spot for lunch, and to let the dog out. The only problem with stopping for lunch is that you sit down feeling energised after a good, long walk and looking forward to the afternoon, and stand up 20 minutes later almost unable to move and dreading having to. I suppose this is why I only tend to stop once during the day, and I suppose that is why I'm walking on my own!

The weather was perfect today by the way, though I believe the rain is back tomorrow. Perfect temperature, perfect amount of sunshine during the ten hours I was walking, perfect amount of breeze on the moor and perfect visibility. So...perfect. Even the flies were having a day off, flies don't like perfect weather.

I am obsessed with lists (hi Mary!). I have always made them, and my phone has made it easier as I need them either written or typed. Mental lists are a thing of the past for me (like non-seizure lunch stops). I write/type two types of lists - things to do and top fives (when the book 'High Fidelity came out it was like I'd been studied for my entire life), and today the Doethie Valley was going to be a definite new entry in my top 5 'valleys of the UK that I've seen' list. But I didn't want to type it into my phone at that point as it seemed inappropriate, so I successfully stored it mentally until this evening, which has pleased me greatly. Oddly enough I survived High School by making lists, as well as knowing a lot about music. I remember Tom Okker saying to me, "Hey Dowest (that was me), you know your lists? Well make a list of the top fighters at this school. Oh and put me top or I'll smash your face in." So I duly made a top 5 list and put him top. When I showed him he looked delighted and genuinely surprised, and wandered off stroking his knuckleduster (ah, those were the days!). Five minutes later Tony Pitchford appeared. "Hey Dowest, Okker says he's top of the (yes, THE) fighting list above me. If he is I'm going to..." At this point I had already anticipated having my faced smashed in by any of numbers 2 to 5, so said, "It's ok Tony, you've just gone up to number 1." He left happy and it went on and on and on. Okker once even said to me, "Hey Dowest, (such and such) says he knows more about Meatloaf than me, so write down some songs so I know more." I suppose it was self-preservation list writing and it's stuck. Of course after these recollections the top 5 lists came flooding back, and I sense they'll be around for the duration of the walk now.

Have you seen the place names I've stayed at so far?! I hope nobody tomorrow asks me where I stayed last night. Pont... is a pleasant village, though I seem to have exited remoteness for the time being. I'm staying in the Black Lion and have eaten a tasty game hotpot ("warning, may contain shot" - nice one, and it did!). I am considering attempting an early start tomorrow, but knowing me I won't.



Some nice houses in Pont....

-- Posted from Kev's iPhone

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